We decided to spend a few days away from the ranch in Kaikoura before Cath had her baby. I trawled the internet for a B&B where I opted for " A Rest n Kai" which is Maori for sleep and food.
The Journey
After ruling out the much-touted Coastal Pacific rail we booked and travelled via the Inter-City Coach service.
Though the choice was made on price (Train $360 v Coach $80) the coach experience was a real gem!Well-appointed and scrupulously clean modern coaches with drivers who knew the terrain and its history. Both driver commentaries were interesting but the return driver got the prize with his knowledge of how the incredible countryside views had been formed by the agriculture, the boom in wine production and tree-planting by both the early Europeans and latterly the NZ Forestry Commission. About one hour North of Christchurch you pass through the Waipara valley which are stocked with relatively new vineyards. I am sure we have all enjoyed NZ wines from this particular area.The road winds its way up into the foothills of the Kaikoura seaward mountain range before dropping down to the coastal road and onward to Kaikoura, a seaside settlement which represents the most northern district in the Canterbury region on the east coast of the South Island.
We were met at the drop-off by our landlady, Carmel Tindall, who took us on a tour of the area and helped us plan our walks, restaurants etc. - she offered to take us to walk starting points as required. The hospitality and her local knowledge and help made all the difference.
The estate where the B&B was located is known locally as the "Waiting for God" estate as virtually all its inhabitants are 70+ (I think we brought the average age down to 81.5).
The annex to the right was our room.
The view from our window
A pictorial record of the walk from South Bay back to Base (Our longest walk).
200yds into the walk
You can see the path incline ahead
Looking back about 30 minutes in
The first vantage point
Looking into South Bay
About halfway - looking South
Looking inland towards the seaward Kaikoura range
The end of the hills section
A favourite spot for seal watching - the beginning of the long flat coastal walk back to base
Back on the flat we stopped to sample the locally caught Crayfish. You select the one you want and it is bbq'd with butter and served with bread and salad.
Our meal
The Crayfish "Restaurant"
Carole - post Crayfish
Carole wasn't too impressed and I had to help her out! Actually it was tasty but a little tough and I found from a restaurant-er that they were pre-cooked and warmed up which could explain the less than succulent texture.
Our Kaikoura Experience
The place is wonderful with many different and exciting things to do - Whale watching (By boat, Helicopter or fixed-wing)Kayaking, Guided Walks (1/2 Day or 3 Day), swimming with dolphins, boat fishing....... to name most of the expensive options.
Apart from the long walk from South Bay we busied ourselves with basic aimless wandering and window shopping in the consistently sunny and warm conditions. The local museum, run by volunteers, was nevertheless interesting and another reminder of how short NZ history is. Rain did come on two nights but by then it was dark and we were ensconced in a restaurant or bar - we only got one real soaking. We ended up in an Irish bar on two nights where we were the oldest by 20 years. We found out on our last day that the place is renowned for fighting and stuff on the weekend!
We enjoyed local fish first night, spag boll the next, finishing with good old sirloin at an "organic" joint. The latter probably took the honours - the meal was superb and Carole had saved her allowance and we enjoyed the best bottle of wine in ages (A Marlborough sparkling Sauvignon Blanc called "Violet")
Carole managed the whole week without a fall until Thursday morning when she tripped over some fresh air and pulled something in her left leg. Fortunately it does not seem to have done lasting damage.
A selection of photos from the long esplanade;
When we returned to B&B on Wednesday evening there was a message from Paul that Cath had been admitted but all was well. What good timing!!
